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Grape variety

Pinot Noir

黑比诺hēibǐnuò

Burgundy's great red grape, finding a cool corner of China in the Hexi Corridor

Type
Grape variety
Colour
red
Family
Other reds
Origin
France: Burgundy
Main regions
Ningxia, Hebei, Gansu
Synonyms
Pinot Nero, Spätburgunder, Blauburgunder
Literal meaning
'Black Pinot': 黑 means black, 比诺 is a phonetic rendering of Pinot

Taste profile

  • Body

    LightFull
    Body: 2 out of 5
  • Tannin

    LowHigh
    Tannin: 2 out of 5
  • Acidity

    LowHigh
    Acidity: 4 out of 5
  • Fruit

    SubtleIntense
    Fruit: 3 out of 5

Aromas

  • red cherry
  • raspberry
  • strawberry
  • mushroom
  • forest floor
  • Red cherry
  • raspberry and strawberry
  • with earthy notes of mushroom and forest floor as the wine ages.

Sweetness · dry

Pinot Noir is the red grape of Burgundy and one of the most demanding varieties in the world: thin-skinned, early-ripening and happiest in cool climates. In a country dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a minority grape, but it has found a home in the cooler Hexi Corridor of Gansu, where it is considered one of the region's best performers, and it is also grown in Ningxia, both for still reds and for traditional-method sparkling wine.

The cool-climate grape

Pinot Noir is famous for the great red wines of Burgundy and is one of the three main grapes of Champagne. It ripens early and has thin skins, so it needs a cool climate to keep its freshness and aromatic finesse. That makes it a challenge in much of China, where summers are hot and sunny.

The Hexi Corridor connection

The region where Pinot Noir feels most at home in China is the Hexi Corridor in Gansu, the cool, dry strip of oases along the old Silk Road. Decanter describes Pinot Noir and Welschriesling as the region's top performers. Mogao, the corridor's best-known winery, founded in Wuwei in the early 1980s, has made the Pinot family one of its specialities: its 30 Years Old Vine Pinot Noir 2019 won a Bronze medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2026, a rare example in China of wine from vines of that age.

Ningxia and the north

In Ningxia, several estates have taken on the challenge. Silver Heights makes a Pinot Noir called Jia Yuan, and Chandon China, Moët Hennessy's sparkling-wine estate opened in 2013, uses Pinot Noir with Chardonnay for its traditional-method sparkling wines. Near Beijing, Canaan Wine Estate in Huailai has also produced a Pinot Noir.

What to expect

Chinese Pinot Noir is usually lighter in colour and body than the country's Cabernet-based reds, with red-fruit aromas and soft tannins. The best examples show the freshness and delicacy that make the grape so loved elsewhere.

History in China

Pinot Noir has never been a major grape in China, where Cabernet Sauvignon has dominated since the modern wine industry began. Its most consistent home has been the Hexi Corridor of Gansu, where Mogao, founded in Wuwei in the early 1980s, turned to the Pinot family rather than the Bordeaux varieties chosen by most Chinese wineries.

In the 2010s, Pinot Noir gained new attention in Ningxia. Chandon China, inaugurated by Moët Hennessy in 2013 near Yinchuan, chose the two classic Champagne grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, for its sparkling wines, and boutique estates such as Silver Heights began to make still Pinot Noir.

Growing

Pinot Noir needs a long, cool growing season and is sensitive to heat and to rain at harvest. In China it does best in cooler, dry places such as the Hexi Corridor, where irrigation from Qilian Mountains snowmelt and cool nights help it keep its freshness, while late-ripening varieties there can struggle to ripen. As in all of northern China, the vines are buried in winter.

Where it grows

Producers known for it

Food pairings

  • Peking duck, where the red fruit meets the sweet sauce.
  • Mushroom dishes and steamed chicken.
  • Roast duck and other poultry.

Similar ingredients

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