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Grape variety

Marselan

马瑟兰mǎsèlán

A French grape that may become China's signature

Type
Grape variety
Colour
red
Family
China's signatures
Origin
France: a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, created in 1961
In China since
2001
Literal meaning
Phonetic transcription

Taste profile

  • Body

    LightFull
    Body: 4 out of 5
  • Tannin

    LowHigh
    Tannin: 3 out of 5
  • Acidity

    LowHigh
    Acidity: 3 out of 5
  • Fruit

    SubtleIntense
    Fruit: 4 out of 5

Aromas

  • violet
  • red berries
  • blueberry
  • blackcurrant
  • spice
  • Floral notes and red fruit from Grenache
  • with blue and black fruit from Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sweetness · dry

Deep purple, with ripe black cherry and raspberry, spice, often a hint of mint or lavender, and soft, supple tannins. Generous but rarely heavy.

Marselan is a French grape that has found its true home in China. Created in France in 1961 by crossing Cabernet Sauvignon with Grenache, it arrived in China in 2001 and has since spread to every major wine region. China now has more Marselan than any country except France, and many producers and critics see it as the grape that could give Chinese wine its own identity, the way Malbec did for Argentina.

A French grape nobody wanted

In 1961, the French researcher Paul Truel crossed Cabernet Sauvignon with Grenache, looking for a grape with the elegance of the first and the heat resistance of the second. It was named after Marseillan, a small town on the Mediterranean coast. In France it remained a minor grape, rarely named on a label.

A second life in China

In 2001 a Sino-French project planted the first 2.75 hectares of Marselan in China, in Huailai, north-west of Beijing. The first wines, made by Professor Li Demei, impressed everyone. Today China has several thousand hectares of Marselan, more than any country except France, spread across its most diverse regions, from the humid coast of Shandong to the deserts of Ningxia and Xinjiang. Even the Rothschilds of Château Lafite include it in their Chinese wine, Long Dai. Every year on 27 April, the wine world celebrates World Marselan Day.

Why it works in China

Small berries give deep colour and aroma; good disease resistance helps in humid areas; heat tolerance helps in the desert. It adapts to almost everything China can throw at it.

History in China

Marselan was created in 1961 by the French ampelographer Paul Truel, working with the research institute INRA, and named after Marseillan, a coastal town near the Domaine de Vassal research vineyard. In France it remained a minor variety.

Its Chinese story began with a cooperation agreement between the Chinese and French governments, signed in 1999, which created the Sino-French Demonstration Vineyard in Huailai, Hebei, today's Domaine Franco-Chinois. On 13 April 2001, 80,525 vine cuttings arrived from France, including 10,525 of Marselan; they were planted that May on 2.75 hectares. The vineyard's chief winemaker was Li Demei, often called the father of Marselan in China. The first harvest came in 2003, and China's first 100% Marselan followed in 2004.

In 2004 COFCO, owner of the GreatWall brand, also introduced Marselan in Penglai, Shandong. From there the grape spread across the country. Today China has around 4,000 hectares, about 3.8% of its vineyard. In 2023 Ningxia hosted the world's first competition dedicated to the grape, The Marselan Selection; the 2024 edition received more than 330 entries from 12 countries.

Growing

Marselan adapts well to China's very different climates, from the semi-arid hills of Huailai to the deserts of Xinjiang and the foothills of Ningxia. Its small berries give deeply coloured wines, and the variety ripens reliably. As Professor Li Demei has observed, no country has yet claimed it as its signature grape, which is an opportunity for China.

Where it grows

Producers known for it

Pairs with

Food pairings

  • Fruit-forward and spicy enough for Chinese cooking: Peking duck, where the fruit meets the sweet sauce and the acidity cuts the fat; big plate chicken from Xinjiang; cumin lamb skewers.

Similar ingredients

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