Rice Wine at the Table: Crab, Braises and Cheese

Huangjiu has an unusual gift at the table: savoury depth. It carries umami, nutty and caramel notes that few other drinks have, which makes it one of the most food-friendly wines in the world.

The great Chinese classic: crab

In Shanghai and the Yangtze delta, autumn means hairy crab (大闸蟹, dàzháxiè), and tradition pairs it with warm huangjiu. The crab is rich and sweet, and Chinese cooking considers it a "cold" food. The wine is served warm, often with ginger, to balance it. Holding a crab claw in one hand and a cup of wine in the other is a scene that appears again and again in classical Chinese poetry.

The home dishes of Shaoxing and Hangzhou

In its own region, huangjiu goes with the local cooking:

• Dongpo pork (东坡肉): pork belly slowly braised in soy, sugar and wine.
• Drunken chicken (醉鸡): chicken poached, then marinated in huangjiu and served cold.
• Stinky tofu and fermented vegetables: the wine's sweetness softens their pungency.
• Salted and dried fish: the savoury notes meet the salt.

By style

• Dry Yuanhong with seafood, steamed fish and light vegetable dishes.
• Semi-dry Jiafan or Huadiao with braised pork belly, soy-braised dishes and roast duck: its roundness matches their sweetness and umami.
• Semi-sweet Shanniang with spicy and sweet-sour dishes.
• Sweet Xiangxue with desserts, fruit and sweet pastries.

Why it works

Three things make huangjiu easy to pair. Its acidity is low, so it does not clash with soy sauce and sugar. Its umami echoes the savoury notes in braised meat, mushrooms and aged cheese. And its moderate alcohol carries through rich dishes without burning.

With European food

Aged huangjiu has a nutty, oxidative character close to a dry sherry. Try it where you would try an amontillado:

• Aged Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino or Comté.
• Iberian or Parma ham.
• Roasted nuts, olives and almonds as an aperitif.
• Mushroom risotto, porcini, truffle dishes.
• Roast duck or game.

Sweet styles are excellent with blue cheese like Gorgonzola or Roquefort, with dried fruit tarts and with Christmas panettone.

What to avoid

Very delicate raw fish can be overwhelmed by an aged huangjiu. Choose a young, dry wine instead. And avoid strongly bitter dishes with sweet styles.

A simple dinner at home

Start with roasted almonds and a cool, dry huangjiu. Move to soy-braised pork or roast duck with a warm Huadiao. Finish with blue cheese or a fruit tart and a chilled Xiangxue. Three courses, one drink, three styles.

In one sentence

Dry with seafood, semi-dry with braises, sweet with dessert, and aged huangjiu with the cheeses you would pair with sherry.