Jiafan

Under China's national standard, semi-dry huangjiu contains between 15.1 and 40 grams of sugar per litre. Semi-dry wines are amber, clear and bright, with an intense aroma and a smooth, mellow taste, and they improve with age and keep well.

The extra rice makes the fermentation richer and leaves some sugar in the wine. Jiafan is the base for most of the aged Shaoxing wines, including huadiao and nü'er hong.

How to recognise it

On the label look for 加饭 (jiāfàn), often with an age statement such as three, five or ten years. Older bottles may be sold as huadiao (花雕) or nü'er hong (女儿红). The colour is deep amber, and the nose shows walnut, caramel, dried dates and a savoury, soy-like note.

Why more rice matters

Adding more rice and less water makes the fermentation richer: the wine ends up fuller in body, slightly sweeter and better suited to long ageing. This is why jiafan is the base for most of the great aged Shaoxing wines.

The best place to start

For European drinkers, jiafan is the best introduction to huangjiu: it is the easiest to find, it shows the typical character of Chinese rice wine, and it is the style Shaoxing itself drinks most.

How to warm it

Pour it into a small jug and stand the jug in hot water until the wine feels warm to the touch. Never boil it. A dried plum or a slice of ginger in the jug is a classic winter touch.