Jimo Laojiu

The three styles of huangjiu

Scientists divide traditional huangjiu into three major regional styles, based on the raw materials and the starters used: the style of Shaoxing, in Zhejiang; the northern style, exemplified by Jimo laojiu from Shandong; and the southern style, represented by the red qu wines of Fujian.

Millet instead of rice

Huangjiu can be brewed from rice, glutinous rice or millet. In the colder, drier north, where millet has been grown for thousands of years, it is the traditional grain of rice wine, giving Jimo laojiu a darker colour and roasted, caramel-like flavours.

How to recognise it

Look for 即墨老酒 (jímò lǎojiǔ) on the label. The wine is very dark, almost black-brown, with a glossy, slightly syrupy look.

How it tastes

Jimo laojiu is rich and roasted, with notes of coffee, burnt caramel, dark bread and dried fruit, a gentle sweetness and a long, warm finish. It is one of the most distinctive rice wines in China, and it shows how different the northern style is from Shaoxing.

Why millet

Millet was one of the first grains domesticated in northern China, thousands of years before rice became common there. Brewing it into wine is one of the oldest traditions in Chinese drinks, and Jimo laojiu keeps it alive.

How to taste it

Serve it at room temperature or gently warmed, in small cups, and sip slowly.