The northern style
Jimo laojiu, 'old wine of Jimo', is made in Jimo, near Qingdao in Shandong, and is the symbol of the northern style of Chinese rice wine. Scientists divide traditional huangjiu into three regional styles: the Shaoxing style of Zhejiang, the red qu wines of Fujian and the northern style, exemplified by Jimo laojiu.
Millet instead of rice
Unlike southern rice wines, Jimo laojiu is traditionally made from millet, the grain of northern China, which has been grown there for thousands of years. The result is a darker wine, with roasted, caramel-like flavours.
Why it matters
Jimo laojiu is the best way to discover that Chinese 'rice wine' is not always made from rice.