Baijiu in 5 Minutes: China's National Spirit, Explained

Ask a European to name the world's great spirits and you will hear whisky, gin, rum, vodka, tequila. Ask the same question in China and the answer is one word: baijiu. It is the drink of weddings and business dinners, of Chinese New Year and every important toast. By volume it is one of the most produced spirits on Earth. And in Europe, almost nobody has tasted it.

1. What is it?

白酒 (báijiǔ) literally means "white spirit", because it is clear. It is distilled mainly from sorghum, often with other grains such as rice, glutinous rice, wheat or corn. In 2020 China's major distilleries produced about 7.4 billion litres of it.

2. What makes it different?

Two things set baijiu apart from every Western spirit.

The first is **qu** (曲), a fermentation starter made from grain that is left to be colonised by wild yeasts, moulds and bacteria. Where whisky uses malt and cultivated yeast, baijiu uses a whole ecosystem.

The second is **solid-state fermentation**: instead of a liquid mash, most baijiu ferments as damp, almost dry grain, in mud pits, clay jars or piles. The grain is then steamed in a still rather than boiled. The result is a spirit with an aromatic intensity unlike anything else.

3. How does it taste?

It depends on the style. China recognises 12 aroma types. The four great ones are:

• **Sauce aroma** (酱香): savoury, deep, long, with notes of soy and roasted grain. The style of Moutai.
• **Strong aroma** (浓香): fruity and rich, often with notes of pineapple and ripe fruit. The most drunk style in China.
• **Light aroma** (清香): clean, floral, with notes of pear and green apple. The easiest to start with.
• **Rice aroma** (米香): soft and honeyed, made from rice in the south.

4. How strong is it?

Strong. Most bottles are between about 40% and 60% alcohol, and many classic brands sit above 50%. On Chinese labels, strength is written in degrees: 53度 means 53% alcohol. Lighter "low-degree" versions, around 38–42%, are made for gentler drinking.

5. How do you drink it?

Traditionally neat, at room temperature, in tiny glasses that hold just a few sips. Always with food, and always with a toast: every sip is offered to someone at the table. When the host says 干杯 (gānbēi), "dry the cup", you empty the glass. If you would rather sip, say 随意 (suíyì), "as you like".

Today, bartenders around the world are also mixing baijiu into cocktails, where a small amount gives a drink a character no other spirit can.

6. Why does it matter?

Baijiu is not a niche drink. A handful of Chinese baijiu brands are among the most valuable spirits brands in the world, and Kweichow Moutai has at times been one of the most valuable drinks companies on the planet. Behind the business there is a culture: ancient distilling towns, living fermentation pits, family recipes and festivals built around the production calendar.

7. Where should I start?

With a light aroma baijiu, for its clean, approachable style. Then taste a strong aroma from Sichuan and, when you are ready, a sauce aroma from Guizhou. Taste them side by side, in small glasses, with something to eat. Three glasses and you will understand why it is the spirit of China's most important occasions.

In one sentence

Baijiu is China's clear grain spirit, made with a unique wild starter and solid fermentation, and it comes in more styles than most Europeans can imagine.